First Day of Summer, What To Sow Now & All About Tomatoes

Happy first day of summer, eh? Also, happy Father’s Day to all the dads.

Today is a rain day here on the prairies. Cold, breezy, and rainy…but! There is sunshine in the forecast for all of next week.

Here we are, the longest day of the year. I was heading for bed at 10pm the other day, thinking wow, it is so light outside still! Looking forward to summer like weather to come. Am kinda over this cold spring we have had ; )

Hostas and greenery plants are thriving in the cool, rainy weather. In the picture are a few hosta plants, a weeping spruce tree, ferns, and groundcover of creeping jenny.
The weeping spruce, hostas, ferns, and creeping jenny are all thriving. The planter box annuals are just kinda hanging in there, waiting for heat.

The garlic, hostas, ferns, raspberries, and perennials, are all thriving in the rain and cooler temps. What is not thriving are the spring sown or planted seedlings and the heat lovers. However, we are going to have one more day of rain and cold (tomorrow) and then 5 whole days of glorious sunshine.

A greenhouse with two pistachio green raised beds on either side, a green rack of flowers at the back, and lots of flower seedlings coming up around the pathway.
The plants are still tiny in the greenhouse as spring has been so cool that I planted later, but the cucumbers have all germinated (left side bed) and the tomatoes are growing and flowering already. I am using both strings and spirals to grow them, this year.

While my garden plants are all small and the tomatoes look sad (but are flowering!), the greenhouse plants are doing great. I am growing my eggplants and peppers in black grower pots outside, on the south side of the house instead of in the greenhouse, this year. In the greenhouse are the tomatoes, cucumbers (lots and lots), plus flowers.

My biggest issue has been getting stuff finished as I am being a fair weather gardener. I have spent so many years having to go out and work in the cold, in the rain, in the snow, that this year I just decided that I am too old and broken to do that. Or, rather, too old to want to do that, lol. So, hubby and I do as much as we possibly can on the warm, sunny days.

A patio with a blue striped umbrella, a teak table, and 6 wicker chairs. A dog is drinking from the birdbath in the background and a Romeo sour cherry tree is in the foreground.

I really want to show you the patio as we have planted 3 more trees around it, this spring. But… there are bags of mulch on the patio, wheelbarrows, plants awaiting planting, stuff hanging about till we have a chance to finish our spring tasks. So, till then, just know that we now have 2 apricots, 2 apples, and 2 ornamental trees planted around the patio ; )

What To Sow/Grow Now

As my daughter is coming over later on today, for Father’s Day, I asked if she could bring me more sunflower seeds. She said… ‘is it not too late’? Nope! I told her that I just keep on sowing!

  • Flowers To Sow Now
  • Alyssum
  • Baby’s Breath
  • Bachelor’s Buttons
  • Calendula
  • Forget Me Nots
  • Foxgloves
  • Nasturtiums
  • Phlox
  • Sunflowers
  • Tagetes (Gem Marigolds)
  • Zinnias
  • Veggies To Sow Now
  • Beets
  • Bush Beans
  • Carrots
  • Corn
  • Fennel
  • Greens (arugula, kale, spinach)
  • Green Onions
  • Kohlrabi
  • Lettuce
  • Peas
  • Potatoes
  • Rutabaga
  • Swiss Chard
  • Turnips
  • Did you know that the next two weeks is the right time to start rutabagas? They like to start in a warm garden and finish in the cooler temps of fall, even if the weather is a bit frosty.
  • Did you know that you only have 10 days left to sow carrots? Sow your seeds before or around July 1st.
A hand showing the size of two Pesta heirloom tomatoes froing on a vine.
  1. After all that rain, there is a lot of weeding to do. Stay on it. Try to run the hoe through a different garden bed each time you’re out there puttering.
  2. If the weeds are really bad, hoe them down, pull out the worst of them, cover with biodegradable weed barrier (heavy duty landscape paper that breaks down with time, is better than cardboard), and then either 4 inches of mulch over top or a layer of good garden soil to sow seeds into/plant seedlings into. You can also use newspapers, if you can still find some. Go 3 or 4 sheets thick.
  3. Succession sowing – the time is nigh : ) as you harvest your radishes, turnips, winter sown carrots, add another row of herbs, carrots, beets, bush beans, onions.
  4. Island growers will be harvesting their garlic soon and always wonder what to grow in the bed for the rest of the summer, till it is planting time again. I mean, flowers are always an option as they go on sale at all the shops this time of year, but for food crops, I love to grow bush beans.

All About Tomatoes

Did you know that your tomatoes can get too much heat? The best temp for tomatoes is 18 to 28C (65 to 85 F). They will flower, fruit, ripen, take up water nicely. All will be perfect.

When temps go over that for a few days in a row, flowers will go sterile in temps of 29 C (85 F), fruit will have a hard time taking up water, leaves will wilt, sunscald and hard green shoulders can happen, tomatoes seem to take forever to ripen.

What can you do?

  • Water in the morning, before 11 am, or after 4 in the afternoon. Do not worry about leaves looking wilty, they will perk up again in the evenings. If you have good spacing and no humidity, you can hose down the foliage to cool it down, but you risk fungal issues if there is no air flow.
  • Offer them shade. Use shade cloth, make temporary shade with sheets, grow tall flowers/crops on their sunniest side.
  • Mulch the soil to help retain moisture.
  • Use weeping hoses or drip systems to water deeply every third or fourth day. Do not water daily or you will end up with mealy, yucky tomatoes.
  • Do not feed in a heat wave! Wait till it’s over and then feed with your favourite organic tomato fertiliser.
  • Cal-Mag is another great fertiliser (Canadian product) to help you prevent Blossom End Rot (BER). My grower friend, on the island, swears by this product.

Heat has not been a problem here this year, instead we are having a Junuary and tomatoes are struggling to grow. You can feed them with this liquid fertiliser or this one (Canadian product) to help them take up more phosphorous, which is what they have a problem taking up in cool weather. These fertilisers will also help if your tomatoes and veggies are looking a bit peaky, unhappy, or simply not as thriving as you would like.

A raised bed with tomato plants that are loaded with small, red and green tomatoes. A flowering basil plant is in the foreground and tall sunflowers in the background.
My soil is so great that not only do I get a lot of tomatoes, I also get a lot of foliage. I thinned out the leaves 3 times last year so the sun would hit the fruits to help them ripen. Ps, this never happened to me on the island, where we had to work hard to build up our soil.

Indeterminate versus Determinate

This determines how tomatoes grow. Indeterminate are also called vining types, they grow long stems, determinates are bush tomatoes that stay quite compact.

Determinates grow to a certain (determined) size, fruit all at once, and ripen all at once (meaning over a 2 week timeline, approximately). You do not need to prune these tomatoes unless you have such rich soil that you are need to thin out the leaves, in mid to late summer, to let the sun hit the fruits. They usually grow to just 2 -2.5 feet tall.

I like determinates for canning purposes as I can harvest all the tomatoes at once to make my sauces and salsas. My favourite determinate canning tomatoes are Ropreco, Bellstar, Heinz 2653, Heinz 1350, Martino’s Roma.

Tow tall vining tomato plants are growing in large black grower pots inside a greenhouse. Between them is a bright red geranium in a clay pot.

Indeterminates keep on growing and flowering throughout the season. They can grow from anywhere from 6 to 12 feet tall, if they have the time, space, (and good soil). There are two schools of thought for pruning these guys.

The first way is to just remove any leaves that are touching the soil (to prevent disease) but otherwise let it go wild. Note that it will get very large . Make sure to give it great support (large tomato cage or tower). Then snap off the tops at the end of the growing season to allow the plant to put it’s energy into ripening the fruits on the vine, rather than continue growing and flowering.

Rows of staked indeterminate tomato plants with straw mulch.
This is an internet image of indeterminate tomatoes, no source provided.

The second way (the most common way) is to remove leaves touching the soil, up to the first truss of flowers/fruits.

If you are growing the tomato up a stake, you will need to keep tying them up as they grow.

How to remove a sucker from a tomato plant

Remove all the suckers (the new stems that form in the vee of leaves growing from the main stem). This will be a weekly job through most of the summer.

Charles Dowding's greenhouse with vining tomatoes that have been bottom pruned.
Charles Dowding’s greenhouse in late summer. Photo credits to jeogardener.com

Remove bottom leaves as tomatoes ripen and/or the leaves yellow. The bottom leaves are the oldest ones, so they just get old. Remove them to keep your plant thriving. As the tomatoes ripen from the bottom up, remove leaves below each cluster of fruits as they ripen.

I do a bit of both styles, to be honest. If I am growing them up strings, I will only let one or two suckers grow. This keeps them from taking over the greenhouse.

Tie a string loosely at the bottom of your tomato plant.
Tie a string into a loose loop around the bottom part of the stem.
Twist the string around your tomato plant
Twist the stem around the string.
Tomatoes growing up strings inside a greenhouse.
I give each tomato 2 to 4 strings, so I can let a few suckers go.
Watermelons and cucumbers growing up strings in a greenhouse.
In my little greenhouse, I grew melons, cucumbers, and tomatoes up strings for maximum production.
A very large Black Cherry Heirloom tomato plant in a wire cage with a wooden stake.
This is Black Cherry, an indeterminate cherry tomato that I have left the suckers on. It is staked and caged to keep it standing.

And sometimes, I just let them grow. I remove a few suckers in the beginning, but as they begin to fill up the cages, I let them be. If you decide to go this route, you need very large and strong tomato cages as the plants get enormous. The tomato cage in the photo is one of the enormous cages (get them at Buckerfields or Canadian Tire) and it is being held upright with two tall, wooden stakes. The square metal cages are stronger, less likely to tip.

A truss of Green Grape semi determinate tomatoes.
Green grape (also called Green Gauge) is a semi determinate cherry that is yellow-ish green at maturity. Very sweet, very yummy.

Semi-Determinate tomatoes are harder to find, more rare, but are kind of the best of both worlds. Though the stems are a bit longer (4 to 5 feet), they can still be grown in a sturdy tomato cage. They have one large flush of tomatoes, like the determinates do, but will also grow a few smaller flushes afterwards, continuing till frost. They do not need to be topped in late summer, will automatically just stop growing and producing. Paste semis tend to be bigger and meatier than determinates.

Grow them just like your determinate (bush) varieties.

My favourite varieties are Heidi, Speckled Roman, Stupice, Black Plum, Gill’s All-Purpose, Sasha’s Altai. Here are a bunch more to try (Canadian source). Green Grape.

Check out this Insta post from theyoungnonno to help you determine how many tomatoes you need to grow for a year’s worth of homemade sauce.

Tall vining tomatoes grow up strings and stakes inside a greenhouse. The plants are in clay pots, sitting on a gravel base.
Check out the tomatoes growing up both a stake and strings. From this article ‘How to grow tomatoes‘.

Happy First Day of Summer ~ Tanja

Leave a comment

I’m Tanja

Growing food and flowers cottage garden style (potager style) for healthier, happier gardens.

Feeding pollinators, attracting pollinators, for bigger, better food crops.

Follow for practical, easy to do gardening tips to improve your garden harvests while also saving our birds, bees, and environment… and growing lots of pretty flowers, too.

Processing…
Success! You're on the list.

Let’s connect

Discover more from The Marigold Potager - A Zone 3 Prairie Garden

Subscribe now to keep reading and get access to the full archive.

Continue reading